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These natural wells have been the only source of water for Yucatán
farmers for millennia. Major Maya ceremonial centers were once
constructed beside cenotes as are the indigenous villages that
dot the landscape today. And when you consider the fact that these
underground systems are old as the Sahara Desert (they were sealed
off after the end of the last Ice Age about 10,000 years ago),
the ancient Maya civilization seems strangely like recent history.Two
thousand years ago, the ancient Maya were just as intrigued by
caves and cenotes as we are today. Back then, these were sacred
places where fervent Maya kings, and peasant alike, made offerings
to their gods. Archeologists and cave explorers are only beginning
to uncover what remains a vast unknown territory.A two-hour drive
west of Cancún, imposing Chichén Itzá is
worth the trip just to have a look at a real cenote. With an impressive
60-meter (197-ft) diameter, the perfectly circular Sacred Cenote
is reputedly over 35 meters(115 ft) deep. Staring into its uninviting
murky-green waters, it's easy to imagine the Maya's ancient rituals.
The lonely remains of an ancient sweatbath stand nearby, conjuring
up images of lofty Maya nobles preparing victims for sacrifice
before abandoning them to the deep. Local folklore says that the
cenote still claims a new victim every year, but this has never
been documented.
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Also
in the vicinity is Cenote Zaci. Located right in Valladolid (on
Calle 36), this strange dark cavern is worth a visit if you've
never seen a cenote before. There's lots of otherworldly atmosphere
here, although the stagnant green water is not recommended for
swimming.Closer to Cancún, a vast series of underground
treasures is ripe for discovery along what's known as the Riviera
Maya. Aside from Caribbean beaches, quaint fishing villages and
spanking new resorts, this 160-kilometer (100-mile)-long strip
of coastline located south of Cancún is peppered with all
kinds of cenotes, caverns and underground rivers.

Diving,
snorkeling and cave exploring expeditions to some of the
better known destinations are widely available and offer a chance
to experience the strange geography that makes the Yucatán
peninsula unlike any other place in the world.When it comes to
snorkeling in an underground river or in a real cenote, Xcaret
(72 kilometers/45 mi. south from Cancún) is a popular choice.
With its underground tunnels and cavernous cenote, this privately-run
park is a watery wonderland of bizarre treasures. Xcacel (119
kilometers/74 mi.) also boasts a good snorkeling cenote. Further
south, there's Dos Ojos, about 122 kilometers (76 mi.) from Cancún
and just past Xel-Há.Anyone trained in cave diving couldn't
be in better place; more than 80 different cave systems have so
far been registered in the Riviera Maya and more are being discovered
every day. Among these, Nohoch Nah Chich (Maya for "big house
of bird") recently made international headlines as the largest
known underwater cave in the world. Divers at this awesome geographical
phenomenon recently broke a world record covering more than 29
kilometers (18 mi.) of the uncharted system's interconnecting
caverns and tunnels. The system is located a few kilometers from
Akumal (about 104 kilometers/65 mi. south of Cancún).And
what is it like down there? "You're visiting a very, very
special environment", says Jim Cook, diver and scientist.
"For one thing, the creatures living in the caves are far
more fragile than humans. They have no eyes, no skin pigmentation,
no real senses except for scent". About ninety-five percent
of these cave dwellers are crustaceans, he adds, although you're
also likely to see blindfish and the occasional eel.
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The
last time divers dredged the Sacred Well at the archeological
site of Chichén Itzá in Yucatán, they came
up with more than they bargained for. Skeletons of sacrificial
victims, intricately carved jewelry and other, thousand-year-old
offerings to ancient gods were all recovered from the well bottom.
You can expect to find just about anything in the uncharted cave
system and natural wells that riddle the Yucatán peninsula.
From the Caribbean shores of Cancún in the state of Quintana
Roo, to the southeastern state of Campeche and the savanna landscape
of the state of Yucatán, there isn't a single above-ground
river. Rather, the flat limestone terrain of the north and central
areas of the peninsula is crossed by a series of labyrinths, Caves
and Cenotes (freshwater sinkholes caused by the collapse of cavern
roofs). Rain is absorbed into the porous surface and passes through
to underground rivers that connect the cenotes.The many underground
rivers and extensive cave systems located near Cancún offer
exciting opportunities for visitors interested in diving, snorkeling,
cave exploration or just seeing one of these phenomena.

Just
six kilometers (4 mi.) east of Chichén Itzá, the
mystical Caves of Balancanché offer another intriguing
link with the past. There you can take a 40-minute tour and see
an immense cavern traversed by a several-hundred-meter-long path
terminating in a stagnant pool.
Besides
huge stalactites and stalagmites, you can also see dozens of ancient
Maya metates (corn grinders) and ceremonial artifacts left behind
by anonymous worshippers when they abandoned the cave about 800
years ago. Just who those ancient visitor were and why they hastily
departed the caves is something that's been contemplated since
1959, when a local guide discovered the caves when he pushed against
a cave wall, causing it to suddenly give way.Another amazing geographical
phenomenon is Cenote Dzitnup. Located just outside the colonial
city of Valladolid (about a two-hour drive west of Cancún)
this fantastic natural cave is one of the most dramatic of its
kind on the Yucatán peninsula. Clambering down a rock-hewn
staircase, you suddenly find yourself in a vast cavern, right
at the edge of the cenote. Sunlight filters through a small opening
in the cave roof giving the still blue water an unearthly quality.
An impressive gallery of stalactites and stalagmites completes
the scene. Sun-baked visitors inevitably opt for a refreshing
swim in the chilly waters and are encouraged to do so.
Cook
has personally done over 2,500 cave dives and has made all kinds
of fascinating discoveries, not the least of which included archaeological
relics left behind by Maya explorers in search of fresh water
source thousands of years ago.Needless to say, exploring an uncharted
cave is a dangerous undertaking. "Unlike open water (e.g.
reef) diving, there is no direct access to the surface, so it
really makes no difference whether you're three kilometers (2
mi.) into a cave or a mere 45 meters (150 ft), the dangers are
just as intense", he says. To avoid complications and dangerous
situations, divers bring backup lights, and they also lay guide
linesabsolutely essential since the slightest disturbance
of silt in the caves can instantly reduce visibility from hundreds
of yards to mere inches. As well, he says, there is a mandatory
air rule: save two thirds of your air for the journey back. A
simple but effective precaution.For any advanced diver interested
in doing a cave dive, Cook recommends consulting a reputable dive
shop that specializes in this special kind of diving. Check out
those in Akumal and Puerto Aventuras; their teams are experienced",
he says.Non-divers can also experience this underwater world.
Because cenotes are usually entrances to vast cave systems, it
is possible to do a little snorkeling in the area. At Nohoch,
a large cenote and 106 meter (348-ft)-long, open-air tunnel allow
for some amazing snorkeling for even the most inexperienced.

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